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A Genta style divers watch with a difference

Nuun was a watch brand that up until recently, I wasn’t familiar with. I’d seen the odd image here and there of their watch on Instagram but never had the chance to take a look at one in person. Nuun derives their name from an island off the Arabian gulf's coast, and their watches are deeply inspired by the area, specifically with the option of Arabic dials they use. The line of watches as a whole is very driven towards sports but also with a contemporary look. They offer watches in some exciting configurations with the Arabic dials and more standard indices and choices of materials and finishes like rose gold and some colourful polycarbonate options on some models.

Recently Nuun released their N200 range of watches which is a very nautical focused watch that they say draws its inspiration from sailing. It’s a more rugged timepiece but has a more refined style than an out and out divers tool watch. Nuun contacted me and asked me if I would like to test one out, so here is how I got on.

The N200 is available in two colours, a titanium grey case version or the one I chose, a gunmetal finish. Both are essentially 316L stainless steel, but I do particularly like the look of the finish on the gunmetal version I have here. 

The case itself is in no small way very similar to the Genta designed Patek Philippe Nautilus. This is an iconic design recognised by many avid watch enthusiasts. It’s not a direct copy, but the similarities in style are hard to ignore. I have always loved this case style, so this was perfect for me. The case itself measures just a touch over 40mm in diameter and has a lug to lug width of 47mm, so its compact dimensions wore well on my just over 7-inch wrist.

The case on both the gunmetal and Titanium grey version feature screw-down crowns and sapphire crystals with anti-reflective coating for the face and the rear display case back. This gives the N200 a full dive ready water-resistance of 200 meters.

The dial on the N200 is where things start to get interesting. Both variations feature a translucent gradient dial which is not something I’ve seen in many of the smaller brand watches, and it gives a very different look to this dial. The translucent effect, along with the applied Lumibrite filled indices, really gives a depth to this dial you don’t see very often and allows you to see the Seiko movement powering the N200.

The dial's writing is kept simple with Nuun at the noon position and automatic, water-resistant 200m/665ft at 6 o’clock. The water resistance rating in meters and feet is finished in red to match a red-tipped seconds hand which is an excellent detail. Also, they ensured the date function has a correctly coloured black date wheel matching the dark outer edge of this gradient dial, so it doesn’t throw off the dark aesthetic on the outer edge of the dial. 

Powering the N200 series is the Seiko NH35A, a very well known and reliable movement, particularly for watches like the N200 with a strong water sports bias. The movement in this one over the last few weeks has been strong and well within the stated tolerance of -20~+40 seconds per day and offers hacking and hand winding. This is the first automatic watch from Nuun, so I was glad to see they went with something tried and true from a movement perspective. The NH35A may not be a pretty movement, but it is rugged and easily serviceable should the need arise, and Nuun give a two-year warranty if things should go wrong. 

Strap wise the N200 comes on a black Caoutchouc rubber strap which, If I’m honest, I hadn’t come across before. Still, it’s an organic rubber used by some high-end watch manufacturers, and it is exceptionally durable, tough, but also soft and pliable. The end result of this is this is one of the most comfortable rubber straps I’ve tried recently. The strap is a curved fitted type and fits perfectly with the 22mm lug width and tapers nicely to 20mm at the buckle. Both the buckle and keeper are colour matched to the finish of the watch, with the keeper nicely engraved with the Nuun Official wording. 

So after a few weeks with Nuun’s first foray into the automatic watch world with the N200, what do I think? Well, as a package, I think the N200 works very well! You have an excellent water-resistant case, a sturdy, reliable movement, sapphire crystal and good quality lume compound in the form of Lumibrite. So from a specifications point of view, I think the N200 has you covered perfectly for a dive/sports watch at this price point (just over £500). 

The real devil is in the details, as they say, and Nuun with the N200 has done a great job here. The packaging is impressive at this price when you consider some brands ship their watches in a pouch or a very basic cardboard box! The N200 comes in a lovely black wooden presentation box inlaid with a metal plate and N200 engraving, and they provide a strap adjustment tool. Don’t get me wrong, this isn’t polished mahogany and gold leaf, but it’s very nicely done and shows a commitment to going the extra mile.

The way the indices are satin finished and shaped is very well done too. The use of strap materials used by some high-end watch manufacturers, are all very nice touches that go beyond the essential list of specifications. Many people complain about strap length on rubber straps, but Nuun covered that by providing straps marked out for cutting and ready to re-fit the buckle. They also include the N.D table on the inside of the strap should you ever actually need it. None of this is essential, but they did it anyway. 

I’m never a fan of display case backs, but just the fact they added a dark AR coating to the sapphire on this makes it more palatable and more finished. The translucent gradient dial is very nicely done. It gives you just enough of a view of the humble NH35A to be visually attractive without being distracting and again is an excellent touch from Nuun that you don’t see very often elsewhere.

Some people may not like the Genta inspired case, and I can understand that, but the form fits the function, and I find it incredibly comfortable to wear. My only gripe I have seen, and this is very picky, is I wish the red used on the dial writing and seconds hand tip was a richer darker red (I warned you it was picky). But aside from that, I’m struggling to find fault with the N200.

Overall I think the N200 is a significant first step for Nuun into the world of automatic watches, and as a company, they appear to be growing in leaps and bounds. And now have several locations across the globe from Europe, the Middle East and the US. Don’t be surprised if you see them soon in some high-end department stores like Harvey Nichols or Saks Fifth Avenue, as Nuun transitions from micro-brand to the very mainstream of the watch world.

If you're looking for a watch that’s a little different and you have a passion for this design style, then I think you would very much enjoy the N200. It offers something very different in terms of dials and is well worth consideration.

Check out the full range from Nuun here, and for 15% off, use code matt15 

Specifications 

Case: Gunmetal 316L Stainless Steel

Dimension: 40.5x46.5mm

Glass: Sapphire Crystal Anti-Scratch

Dial: Translucent

Hands: Luminous

Markers: Arabic / Index

Movement: Seiko Cal.NH35A Automatic

Strap : Black Caoutchouc Rubber

Lug Width: 22mm

Buckle: 316L Stainless Steel

Water Resistance: 20atm / 200m / 656ft