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A ray of sunshine from the Paulin sisters

From time to time, when I’m wading through the sea of new watch releases, something catches my eye that stands out as being different. Being bombarded daily with images of watches in magazines and online with social media can sometimes be almost mind-numbing in the sense that there is something new released but virtually the same daily. So when I come across a watch brand and a watch I haven’t heard of that is doing something a little different, it makes me sit up and take note. 

This happened to me a couple of weeks back with the Neo from Paulin watches. Paulin is a brand from the UK based up in Glasgow founded by the three Paulin sisters but with some authentic heritage in terms of creativity. It goes back to their great grandfather George Henry Paulin who was a sculptor and painter. 

Carrying on in his creative footsteps, the Paulin sisters established Paulin watches back in 2013, intending to create affordable watches that championed sustainability. But affordable and sustainable watchmaking doesn’t need to mean dull and the recently released Neo is a prime example of this. 

Let’s start with the basic specifications of the Neo and, In particular, the Neo B version I went with. This has a stepped case in 316L stainless steel at 38mm in diameter and 11.6mm thick with a mixture of brushing and polishing. Lug width is 18mm, and the Neo features drilled lugs for easy strap changing. 

The movement is the simple but effective Seiko NH35A, an automatic movement with hacking and hand winding and a date function. Nothing revolutionary, but at this price point, indeed nice to see a well regarded and serviceable movement 

Sitting atop the dial is a very nice box section Hesalite PVC crystal which means any scratches picked up can be polished out but more on that later.

Reading the above specifications, you could be forgiven for thinking, well, isn’t that a little dull? What’s unique or creative about this? But then that’s where I find reading a list of specifications to be generally boring! And a watch or some watches are much more than the sum of their parts!

The dial on the Paulin Neo is quite simply fantastic. And this is where the Neo, and in this instance, the B version, really stands out from the crowd. The dial on the Neo’s is milled from a solid piece of aluminium so that the dial itself and the dial feet are all one part. These dials are then anodised and hand-dyed to give the final colour. This so far is a new process not used in watch dials anywhere else currently and delivers striking results. 

Because of this hand-dyed nature, no two dials on the Neo will be identical, so very slight variations will mean your specific version will be unique. The Neo B version I picked up is striking and vivid yellow with the aluminium grain against this colour. It looks simply fantastic. Add a bespoke typeface called Wim for the hand-printed numerals, which draws its inspiration from Dutch graphic designer Wim Crouwel who drew his inspiration from the modernist movement. It’s an intense look, bold and blocky in black, that contrasts superbly against the metallic yellow of the dial. 

Equally strong is the choice of handset. The hands are in three distinct colours black for hours, grey for the minutes and white for the seconds. The handset is robust following the blocky industrial look but with the minute hand featuring a rounded off the tip and cut out section, which nicely prevents it from obscuring the date window when it’s at the 3 o’clock position. The hour hand is a solid black oblong with a small square around the pinion, and seconds is a simple bright white again blunt-tipped affair with a round section at the pinion. These play so well together despite their simplicity and work, especially with this typeface.

Finishing off the dial is black matched date wheel that really is nice to see as it fits in perfectly with the printing of the prominent numerals. Also, Paulin and then Glasgow proudly displayed to the left and right respectively of the 6 o’clock is a nice touch, and these match the grey of the minute hand and simple inner markers below the numerals.

This dial really is a homerun for Paulin, and that should come as a big surprise when you realise that it is produced by AnOrdain, who are responsible for some of the most fantastic dial work in the UK. They produce some of the most remarkable grand feu dials, and so know a thing or two about how to make a watch dial. So this Paulin and AnOrdain marriage in watches really delivers something special, but from a price point and availability point of view, some may struggle with AnOrdain. 

So aside from the fact that both Paulin and AnOrdain are from Scotland based, you may wonder how this collaboration came to be? Well, that’s simple. This marriage between the two creative companies goes much deeper. As it turns out, Charlotte Paulin happens to be married to Lewis Heath, who happens to be the founder of AnOrdain. What a stroke of luck! And I’m sure this makes for some fascinating and creative conversations around watches over morning coffee! The only question I have, though, is why this took so long to happen, guys! And more importantly, will this be something we will see more of in the future? 

Whatever the answers, what’s done is done, and this is the perfect marriage between Paulin and AnOrdain and offers something unique and exciting that I think will be a great hit. The styling is simple but very effective and striking in its execution. Although my choice was yellow if you're looking for something more subdued, they do an equally if less shouty grey version as well as a charming blue option too. 

All are available on numerous strap options, from leather right through to different steel mesh options. If the Leather strap I went for is a good indication of quality, then I doubt anyone will have any strap issues. Solid and see-through case backs are also an option. I went for a solid version as, In reality, the Seiko is not the most beautifully finished movement, but it’s again an excellent option for those that want it.

From an availability point of view, these are not mass production pieces and are built in batches, but I didn’t have to wait many days before one was available in the configuration I wanted, which was a pleasant surprise. And delivery was quick and painless, so top marks to Paulin for having this all in hand. It’s a simple thing, but you may or may not be surprised how many smaller micro brands make a mess of this from a customer experience point of view!

As you can tell, I enjoy the Neo B from Paulin x AnOrdain. It delivers a straightforward but perfectly executed dial that’s fun to wear and accessible. The specifications in terms of movement and crystal may not excite everyone, but they suit the style and price point of this watch. I wear numerous Seiko’s and find the NH35 perfectly acceptable, and it should last a very long time. 

The same can be said for the crystal. I know some may prefer a sapphire, but personally, there is something I like about the acrylic Hesalite, and I’m glad Paulin went with this and not a mineral glass. The hesalite can be polished to look brand new with minimal effort if it picks up a scratch here and there. There is a distinct lack of any form of lume on this dial, so this is something to be aware of as it will be unreadable in the dark, but if I’m honest, I’ve never had a need to use it in those sorts of conditions. 

For me, the individuality of this watch and attention to the necessary details is a real winner, and I think Paulin has come up with a great watch in the Neo B. I look forward to what will come next from the Paulin sisters, and in the meantime, I’ll be enjoying my Neo B no end! 

If you are interested in the Neo B or any of the other watches from Paulin, you can check out their full range here.

Specifications:

Movement: Seiko NH35A

Crystal: Hesalite box section PVC

Water Resistance: 50m

Case: 316L Stainless Steel

Case Size: 38mm

Case Thickness: 11.6mm

Lug width: 18mm

Warranty: 24 months

Price: £395.00