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Earlier in the year, I got the opportunity to spend some time with the PanoLunaMatic from Glashütte Original. A dress watch that wowed me! The finish and attention to detail were truly exceptional! But what if you wanted a watch that blended that trademark quality finishing but also gave the nod to a more daily wearable piece or even a sports watch!  Enter the SeaQ range and, specifically, in this case, the steel and yellow gold version of this diver from Glashütte Original.

Glashütte Original are really much better known for their dressier piece and less the sports or tool watch market but take a trip back to 1969 and look at their range, and you will come across the Spezimatic Typ RP TS 200. As much as this isn’t a name that rolls off the tongue, this is where Glashütte Original’s dive watch journey began, and the design influence carried over to the modern counterparts in the current SeaQ range is easy to see. The case shape and design remain very faithful, and the robust, highly legible dial markers are all very distinct features of both the Spezimatic and the modern SeaQ. 

So the lineage of the SeaQ is clear but with a more modern, dressy appeal of this latest version of the SeaQ, which adds a bi-metal twist to what is essentially a tool watch. Divers watches that feature precious metals have never really been something I was especially fond of. But in recent years, with releases from Tudor and other well-known brands, I’ve come to look at these pieces with somewhat more interest. They do add a special something if done in the right way. And this is where the SeaQ caught my eye. The balance between steel and yellow gold on this piece is struck just perfectly, in my opinion, and makes this an exceptional-looking piece.

The use of yellow gold, platinum, diamonds, and other precious stones is nothing new in the world of watchmaking, and it’s not been restricted to dress watches. If you want a yellow gold Submariner, the Rolex will happily oblige in the form of the Bluesy. A full yellow-gold version of the Submariner with a charming blue sunburst dial. But overall, I’ve always felt the line between dress and tool watch is crossed too far with these pieces. Beautiful as the bluesy is, it's neither a slender dress piece to wear with a suit or dress or a functional tool watch you would want to put on your wrist to go diving. I’m sure many people do, but for me, the balance is missing.

The SeaQ strikes more of a wearable balance because the use of gold is more restrained and adds to the visual appeal of this watch instead of dominating the entire look. The yellow gold is more of an accented look to this version of the SeaQ and features on the crown, bezel, dial markers, and hands. The use of gold in these areas set against the beautiful deep blue sunburst dial and brushed stainless steel case make these elements pop without overwhelming the watch's look. In short, the balance is struck very well with the colours used for this version. Aesthetically it looks like an exceptional divers watch, but a divers watch nonetheless.

The dial on the SeaQ across the range is unmistakable. With bold, large applied numeral and baton markers that almost look oversized from a numeral point of view. But these are balanced with an equally robust sword-style handset meaning legibility is never going to be an issue any SeaQ owner has to worry about! Because of the sheer size of both the markers and hands and the use of Super-LumiNova, nighttime legibility is also not an issue with any of the SeaQ models. The use of yellow gold here to gilt this particular dial adds a touch of class against this blue sunburst dial. And what a blue dial this one is! The galvanisation process used by Glashütte Original delivers a vibrant profound sunburst effect that makes this watch feel every bit as premium as the price tag would suggest.

Amongst the deep blues and golden highlight of this dial, the dial text has been kept simple with just Glashütte Original at just below the noon and Glashütte ISa at just above the six o’clock with made in Germany sitting split at the six o’clock position. Three o’clock is a practical and colour matched date wheel resulting in a very nicely balanced and usable dial from the SeaQ. 

As a divers watch, of course, it wouldn’t be complete without a unidirectional bezel. The bezel featured on the SeaQ is in line with the vintage style of the case in that it is a slimmer style but featured in yellow gold. In this modern interpretation, gone is the aluminum insert, and instead, this is an altogether more modern ceramic version. Beautifully finished with clear markings and colour matched to that stunning blue dial, it’s a pleasure to use. The clicks are precise and positive, with zero back play or wobble. It’s a simple element, but as usual, Glashütte Original does it exceptionally well on the SeaQ, and it’s a pleasure to use. 

Sitting atop the dial is a very nicely domed sapphire crystal which at the right angle provides some nice distortion to the markers. Never enough to damage legibility but enough to give some authentic vintage charm and additional interest to an already striking dial. It’s a great touch that Glashütte Original thought of these little details as they all add so much to the overall visual appeal to this watch on the wrist.

So, if I haven’t been able to convince you yet that the SeaQ is a truly stunning-looking watch, then as I said at the start, this is also a fully-fledged diver watch at heart. The SeaQ range meets both diver certification standards for Germany in the form of the DIN 8306, and international ISO 6425, meaning getting this one wet won’t be an issue. As you would expect, the SeaQ is 200m water-resistant, so not just a pretty face! This level of water resistance is helped by the screw-down golden crown and solid engraved case-back with a wave and trident design.

The SeaQ features the Glashütte Original calibre 39-11, which offers 40hrs of power reserve and beats at 28.800vph and is highly decorated. In a time where watches are nudging 70 hours of power reserve, the 40 afforded by this movement may seem a little light, but in practical usage, I can’t say I’ve ever needed more than this for a watch I plan to wear regularly. However, the decorating of this movement may be a moot point as you can’t see it. It’s all well and good doing this meticulous movement finishing, but when it’s behind a solid case back, it does beg the question, why? And how much does this add to the overall cost of a piece already sitting in a very premium price bracket?

This pricing may have been slightly controlled with the strap choices offered on this version. The SeaQ bi-metal is provided on either rubber or a synthetic material strap. Both feature stainless steel hardware and wear nicely, but I’d imagine they are cheaper than offering this on a bracelet, pushing the price up higher. In the synthetic version, I had felt highly durable, but without being so stiff, it was uncomfortable. I’m sure either option would work very well, but my pick would be this synthetic version. 

So what is my conclusion on the bi-metal version of the SeaQ? My eyes have been opened to the world of Bi-metal watches with this one, and it’s definitely something I would give very strong consideration to if I was in the market for premium divers watch with a touch of something special. For me, as I stated earlier in this review, the balance with precious metal watches has to be correct, and that’s exactly what I think Glashütte Original has achieved with this version of the SeaQ. On the wrist, this is a stunning watch to look at, but it still retains the tool watch charm that a divers watch should have. 

At 39.5mm, it also wears exceptionally well and will be a very wearable watch for both men and women. And with a lug width of 20mm, it means you can no doubt find lots of strap options that will play to the blue and gold aesthetic. Some may question the rationale of decorating as extensively as they have a movement that you are never likely to see. I know I did. But I also balanced this against how I'm not fond of tool watches with display case-backs. Both high levels of decoration and display case-backs seem at odds with a tool watch look, so I think Glashütte Original struck a balance here but remained faithful to delivering the high levels of finish they are known for. But I guess everyone will or won’t rationalize this as they see fit. The same could be said for the 40hrs of power reserve. I’ve never found these sorts of figures to be an issue, but that’s not to say you won’t, so it’s just worthwhile bearing this in mind if you're contemplating the SeaQ.

Has the SeaQ done enough to push me over to bi-metal watches? Not in the most general of terms, but in this instance, yes. The SeaQ in steel and gold is the perfect balance for me. It has a vintage aesthetic in a very wearable package, and the blue and yellow gold combination used is so nicely done it’s hard not to stare at this one on your wrist. If, like me, you have been tempted, I’d recommend you try this one on for yourself. The gold does add to the SeaQ in this instance, and I, for one, love it.

Specifications:

Price: £10,900

Case dimensions: 39.5mm

Materials: Stainless Steel / Yellow Gold

Strap: synthetic or rubber stainless steel hardware 

Water Resistance: 200m

Bezel: Unidirectional with ceramic insert

Crystal: Sapphire