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Japanese style from UNDONE and Simple Union

UNDONE are back again with another collaboration with Simple Union, and this time it’s based on their Terra cased watches. If you have read my review of the Terra launched last year, you will know I’m a fan of this case shape they call a Tartaruga case. This time though, instead of a more reserved vintage military vibe, this collaboration features the design elements from Simple Union who draw inspiration from Japanese artwork, in this case, the traditional Japanese arts of Sometsuke (Blue and White Porcelain) and Urushi (Black Japanese Lacquerware).

This is a two-piece release, and both have very striking dials! Both dials are finished in a highly polished enamel finish but feature very different looks.

The first is the UNDONE x Simple Union Sometsuke which features a white dial mimicking Japanese white porcelain. This one features a blue minute track and numerals and then the Simple Union logo in place of the noon marker. The dial looks as though it has been cracked and then repaired with gold which is a traditional practice in Japanese pottery repair. Through the cracked dial, you see the skeletonised movement in gold, which looks very impressive indeed against the striking white and blue of the dial! Finishing the UNDONE x Simple Union Sometsuke off is their choice of strap, and in this instance, this limited edition version features indigo coloured Katazome fabric strap. This fabric is hand-dyed and is 150 years old! No two straps are identical, and this edition will be in very short supply, with only 300 individual serialised pieces being made.

The second piece in the collection is the UNDONE Urushi. Urushi is the traditional art of Japanese lacquerware, and this version features a rich black and gold enamel painted dial. The gold-dusted effect and markers shine against the deep black polish of the enamel and make this equally as striking as the Sometsuke but with a very different dark aesthetic. This version features a standard dark brown leather strap with a quick-release feature. This is a solid dial with no view of the movement but still has a very strong wrist presence.

Both watches use the same nicely finished 316L stainless steel Tartaruga case, 37mm in diameter and just over 43mm lug to lug. Both feature screw-down crowns for 50m of water resistance and double-domed sapphire crystals to view these great dials through. The hours and minute hands on both pieces are lumed to provide legibility at night. And both dials feature a twist on the classic California dial with Kanji numerals for the upper portion of the dial. Both watches also feature display case backs, giving you a view of the movement.

Both watches feature Seiko movements, with the Sometsuke featuring the Seiko NH71 and the Urushi featuring the NH35. Both movements are automatic and hand winding with over 40hrs of power reserve.

So final thoughts on these latest releases? I have had the Urushi for a week or two to try out, and there is something special about enamel finished dials. They have an unmistakable lustre, and the black and gold used here really does feel special. I’m a fan of the Tartaruga case shape. It fitted my wrist well on UNDONE’s Terra, and here is no different, and the mix of polishing to the sides and the finely brushed bezel is a great look. 

The Kanji California style dial is a nice twist, and I think if the last collaboration between UNDONE and Simple Union is anything to go by, then these will be incredibly popular. The Japanese inspired dials are very well executed, and I hope UNDONE do more dials with more exotic finishes going forward.

If you like the style of these new releases, then remember the Sometsuke is limited to 300 pieces, so you will have to move fast!